Thursday, February 25, 2010

Kampung Laut, Kelantan 吉兰丹 海洋村

Kampung Laut, Kelantan 吉兰丹 海洋村
Kelantan- the state ruled by Islamic Party PAS, always like to label itself as the country’s leadership in Islamic teachings. For sure by any chance won’t be missing from promoting the oldest mosque –Masjid Kampung Laut ,in Peninsula Malaysia.

The description on the tourism brochure stated that originally Kampung Laut Mosque located in Tumpat. But It was being attacked by a severe flood many years ago.In order to maintain its structure, the authority had moved the mosque to the current location near to the Kota Bharu.

Maybe the name is a bit misleading, or perhaps the name was simply too common. I purposely made a call from Singapore to the Kota Bharu Tourism Office to confirm the location of the historical mosque, somehow was still misled.

Perhaps the officer was too aggressive to promote his own hometown, and I was misled to a very common Malay village Kampung Laut which located the opposite shore from Kota Bharu.

When we were walking in the village, I guess the villagers must be wondering from which earth these 2 guys coming from and to visit their village. They must be puzzled to see 2 “loyal followers” from far far away just to visit their village mosque.

The real Masjid Kampung Laut, situated in Nilam Puri. Asking the villagers the direction and way of going the real Masjid Kampung Laut. Their strong accent of Kelantanese’s Malay made me fall into big question marks….

We these 2 weird guy appeared in the odd hour (3pm), took the boat beside the Tambatan Diraja, and so strangely exist in Kampung Laut. When I recall, I still find it funny for such situation.

Kampung Laut, Kelantan 吉兰丹 海洋村
And through the mistake we made this time, we got the chance to experience the Kelantanese life in unconventional way. A different view on Kota Bharu in different angle along the Kelantan River.
Kampung Laut, Kelantan 吉兰丹 海洋村
The sky was with bright blue, and Kelantan River was just merely brown, between the sky and river divided by greenery land. Combination of colours- blue green brown is not that matching, but it made me meditate- how Kelantanese survived in year end raining season where flood could happen anywhere easily? Or the way newspaper report is not that objective, well, I believe from now on, I will take note more on Kelantan’s news after coming here.

Little Kampung Laut, but its jetty was so gorgeous, but our boat never stopped at this beautifully looking jetty but a plastic floating jetty beside. I was wondering why… it’s just such a waste not to use the already-completed jetty .

Kampung Laut, Kelantan 吉兰丹 海洋村
3 motorbike was welcoming us at the jetty , but they were not coming to fetch us, but the 3 Malay ladies same boat with us. It’s their family member. None of them bothered us, not even a taxi driver, but only the cats, chicken, and goats happily ran here and there welcoming us.

That is in this small village, I saw something rarely seen in Malaysia- The grocery shop boss was sleeping in the shop with the main door opened widely- not even woke up when we tried to wake him up for direction! Good ! at least it shows Kelantan was far safer than in other places.

When we return to the jetty, we found nothing to be done, and the boat was already stopped at the jetty waiting for people get on board. But there was not even 1, except us 2 tourist at the supposed-to-be busy peak office off hour. And this made the boat owner to stop at the jetty for 30min to wait more people to come.
Kampung Laut, Kelantan 吉兰丹 海洋村
The journey to Kampung Laut was really out of our plan, time could be said waster to have gone to a super-duper common Malay village. But from my point of view, this is where backpacking trip is fun in, because not everything ran smoothly as what was planned. Treat it as a journey and explore the other part of earth. Maybe could gain some other thing which was not beautified and more nature.
Kampung Laut, Kelantan 吉兰丹 海洋村
As for this case, we able to see the floating houses along the Kelantan river, their houses were built on numerous floating plastic tank, I think this is a smart way to overcome the notorious floods happen frequently in Kelantan, because their house will float higher when the water level rise up. The intelligence of daily life was not written in the tourism brochure ya.


How to get there?

From small jetty beside Tambatan Diraja, boat departing to Kampung Laut every 40min

Fare:

RM 1.00 per trip





Wednesday, February 17, 2010

吉兰丹 海洋村 Kampung Laut, Kelantan Malaysia

吉兰丹 海洋村 Kampung Laut, Kelantan Malaysia
吉兰丹贵为回教党执政的州属,当然老爱标榜自己身为回教的领导者,更何况马来半岛历史最悠久的回教堂Masjid Kampung Laut在吉兰丹,回教党焉有不宣传的道理。

旅游册子上是说这一座Masjid Kampung Laut海洋村清真寺本来矗立于道北的Kampung Laut,后来大水灾,结果为了避免它进一步遭摧毁,所以整座回教堂搬到了哥打巴鲁去。

由于名字实在是有点误导性,名字似乎太普通了。我特地从新加坡拨了一通电话到吉兰丹旅游局确认该回教堂的位置与前往方式,结果我还是中骗了。

也或许该名员工来自哥打巴鲁对岸的Kampung Laut,想宣传他家乡。。。结果我来到了一个普通的海边马来村庄,到处问人回教堂的方向,我想他们也都会觉得奇怪这么两个身穿短裤的“虔诚教徒”远道而来。

真正的Masjid Kampung Laut位于Nilam Puri,问村民如何前往,可是他们浓厚的吉兰丹腔马来语,实在不甚明了。

我们两个就是那么奇怪的时间(下午3点),搭上了在Tambatan Diraja旁边的小码头的汽船,那么奇怪地出现在海洋村,现在想起来都有点好笑。
吉兰丹 海洋村 Kampung Laut, Kelantan Malaysia
不过就是那么的机缘下,我们可以以另外一个角度去看哥打巴鲁在吉兰丹河畔的一番风味。
吉兰丹 海洋村 Kampung Laut, Kelantan Malaysia
天空一片蔚蓝,而吉兰丹河水却是一片泥朦褐色,天水间则分明隔绝了一片绿,蓝绿褐不太相配,却煞是勾起了我的冥想,想着年尾雨季的吉兰丹人如何在这“大马黄河”边讨生活,或是报道偏颇了?也许需多加注意吉兰丹的新闻。

小小的海洋村,却有着美轮美奂的新码头,可是我们停船的地方却是一个以塑胶桶筑建的漂浮码头,有点奇怪。
吉兰丹 海洋村 Kampung Laut, Kelantan Malaysia
迎接我们汽船的是三辆摩多,因为与我们同船的是三个马来妇女,她们的家人在码头等待他们。我们没人来迎接,连一个搭讪的司机都没有。。。 可怜兮兮。。。只有猫儿羊儿鸡儿兴奋得跑来跑去。

在这个村里,我看到在大马难见的景象-杂货店老板开了门,自己却在里面睡觉,钱财就那么坦荡荡的放置一旁;我们试着问路,老板睡得还真熟呢!

回到码头,无所事事,汽船已在码头等候;纵然已经是下班时间,可是等候它下一趟赴哥打巴鲁却是漫长的,相信海洋村的村民人口不是很多造成的。
吉兰丹 海洋村 Kampung Laut, Kelantan Malaysia
其实旅行有时有些出槌,也是有点那么的乐趣,虽然未能看到想看的景物,可是旅程中的风景就是一种乐趣了。既来之,则安之吧。况且因为这一次的失误,看到了哥打巴鲁真正的一面,不是经过有关单位粉饰的。
吉兰丹 海洋村 Kampung Laut, Kelantan Malaysia
我们看到了吉兰丹河上的水上人间,他们的木屋就建立于塑胶桶上,漂浮在河上,相信吉兰丹河泛滥也不会影响到他们,因为屋子会跟着“水涨屋高”。




如何抵达?

从Tambatan Diraja旁的小码头,出发至Kampung Laut RM1(单程)
船次每40分钟一趟


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